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A Canberra Girl’s Guide to Bogotá, Colombia

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‘It’s Colombia not Columbia’ it’s what you will see printed on souvenirs as soon as you arrive in Bogotá, the capital of Colombia.

That one vowel can place you in very different places, Columbia is a British city and also an ivy university in the United States, Colombia is a country in South America located in the Andes. 

Over the last few decades, Colombia has received a lot of bad press including a whole crime series on Netflix about the ‘King of Cocaine’ but Colombia has been working so hard to change its image. 

While doing a walking tour (which I highly recommend) our guide rolled his eyes multiple times whenever the narco-terrorism subject came up. He explained that Colombians are “so over Pablo Escobar” (who was killed over two decades ago) and the outdated stereotype of being a “super-dangerous” country has been replaced with the friendliness and warmth of the locals. Every tourist and ex-pat I have met while living here has said the same thing—“Colombians are just so nice.” 

This is not to say that it’s super safe, and the best safety tip from Bogotános (people from Bogotá) is ‘no dar papaya’ (also printed on souvenirs.) The expression translates to ‘don’t give papaya’ which has nothing to do with the fruit. It basically means not to have anything of value on display while you are out and about. Don’t wear expensive jewellery, don’t have your phone in your hand, look around before you take your expensive camera out to snap a photo. 

When planning a trip to Colombia, Bogotá is often overlooked over its other major cities like Medellin and Cartagena. But Bogotá is becoming a must-see tourist destination and the options of entertainment are almost infinite. So come with a plan (as getting around the city is not that easy due to traffic) and you can find anything from art, fashion, culture, history, food to an amazing nightlife. 

Here are my top things to see and do in Bogotá. 

Walking is better than driving 

Bogotá has been named one of the cities with the worst traffic in the world, but it’s okay because the two best tours are walking tours. The walking tour I mentioned above takes place along the cobblestones of Bogota’s downtown, La Candelaria. It’s considered the historic centre with colourful colonial buildings, the tour includes Plaza Bolivar home to many ministry buildings and the presidential house. You will also walk by many churches and cathedrals all different in architecture and colour. Everything is very picturesque and unique, giving you an idea of the cities’ history. 

The Bogotá Graffiti Tour holds a special place in my heart not only because it was super insightful and another great way to see the city, but it was started when an Aussie and a Canadian street artists decided they wanted to share Bogotá’s unique urban art scene. The tour started 11 years ago and it’s now considered one of the best things to do in Bogotá. As graffiti art is constantly changing, you can take the tour many times without seeing the same images. 

Be dazzled

The Gold Museum in Bogotá holds the largest collection of pre-Hispanic gold in the whole world. Named by the National Geographic magazine as one of the best museums of the history of the planet, you can discover the most beautiful ancient gold pieces including everything you need to know about the El Dorado legend. 

My favourite museum would have to the Museo Botero. Fernando Botero is a Colombian figurative artist and sculptor known for his signature style of depicting people in large exaggerated volume. 

Make sure you reserve a table.

 

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When going out to eat make sure you reserve a table, people in Bogotá have a thing for reservations. I have been turned away multiple times when I tried to be spontaneous. For very typical Colombian food La Puerta Falsa is a must. I have to admit I first heard of this place through Anthony Bourdain and to be fair it’s very touristy but also very good. You should try the tamals, the arepas, the ajiaco and a rich cup of hot chocolate served with a piece of cheese melted inside. 

Definitely check out Mesa Franca, it’s modern Colombian food using local ingredients. They have the most amazing cocktails and they change their menu every week. These guys have consistently made the list of the worlds 50 best restaurants in Latin America

Another favourite of mine is Andrés Carne de Res (also on the list). The food is amazing, the cocktails are super fun (think bowls!) but you are really there for the experience. The whole place is sensory overload, with small groups playing instruments around the tables, and decorations hanging from literally every inch of the restaurant. People often leave the table between meals to dance with the roaming entertainers or even just the waitress. Don’t be alarmed if you get crowned kind or queen of the night (sash included) and água ardiente shots. 

A really fun night out is not complete without a visit to Theatron. This is one of the worlds largest nightclub, with 16 different dance floors all independently themed with different styles of music and atmospheres – there is even one exclusive for women (AKA belting Taylor Swift). On Saturday nights the main floor puts on an all night drag show complete with a very convincing Britney Spears and Beyoncé look alike. This place can get really hectic with about 5,000 people and a lot of the bars inside do bottle service only. 

Try the best coffee in the world

Colombia is the third largest coffee producing country in the world. While Canberran’s are quickly becoming as boogie and Melbournian’s when it comes to our coffee, even I have to admit there is nothing like Colombian coffee. There are so many coffeehouses and tours you can take to learn about where the coffee comes from, including the process from bean to cup. One of my favourite places is Café San Alberto in Usaquen, I may or may not have had their expresso martini before midday once or twice. 

Sunday is the new ‘funday’


Two of my favourite activities happen every Sunday in Bogotá. In the beautiful neighbourhood of Usaquen (in the north of Bogotá) a flea market takes place every Sunday in between the cobbled streets and colonial village like vibes. The stalls are all proudly ‘made in Colombia’ artisan products, handmade goods and souvenirs. 

The ‘ciclovia’ is another one of my favourite weekend plans. Every Sunday morning and on public holidays, over a hundred kilometres of the city streets are closed to cars (which doesn’t help with traffic) but it’s amazing for riding bicycles, walking or running. Don’t be alarmed if you feel extra out of breath (it’s not from all the delicious food) the altitude in Bogotá—2,640 meters above sea level—can knock the wind out of even the most serious athletes. Take this opportunity to try a street vendor’s freshly squeezed juice from fruits that are native to Colombia and cannot be found anywhere else in the world. 

Views for days

Bogotá is a huge city, and one of the best panoramic views can be seen from the top of Monserrate, which is a cathedral located on one of Bogotá’s eastern hills and can be seen from all over the city. From up there, you can really get a sense of its enormity with a breath-taking view, specially if you walk up. But don’t worry, you can take the cable car also from the La Candelaria neighbourhood. 

Bogotá has the best to offer from the most welcoming country, just don’t get geographically lost by just a single vowel. 

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