Biota Dining: worth the roadtrip

Posted on 1 July, 2014

It’s that time of year when the air is crisp, the leaves are falling and the region surrounding Canberra is bursting with colour.

A couple of weeks ago, Mr N and I took a leisurely drive to have lunch at Biota Dining, a two hatted restaurant tucked away in the Southern Highlands.

Biota draws foodies from both Sydney and Canberra to sample its cutting-edge food, but warning to the uninitiated: Chef James Viles likes to surprise his guests, which can lead to some innovative (and odd sounding) ingredients. Grass, burnt hay or dried lactose anyone?

A small farmers market is held once a month, the first thing I spot from the car park. Stalls selling beautiful golden pumpkins, sticky rhubarb tarts and hand-stirred jams cluster around Biota’s duck pond. The sky is blue and ducks quack at playing children. It’s all very picturesque.

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The interior of the restaurant has a Nordic feel – lots of clean lines and open space. A large counter runs down one side of the room, where you can see the chefs, armed with giant tweezers, plate up. If you’re a fan of Masterchef, put in a request to sit close to the action.

On weekends, there are three dining options. A set degustation of five ($105) or seven courses ($135), or a three course a la carte ($75). Biota won the SMH award for Best Regional Wine List this year, so it’s no surprise matching wines are available.

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Feeling decadent, Mr N and I opt for the seven-courses. After all, we didn’t drive two hours for nothing.

First out is a flag of trout jerky and a beautiful brown loaf of wholewheat sourdough, perched on a sack of hot rocks to keep it warm and crusty. The jerky dangles from a wire thread – reminding me of an 80’s Alessi gadget, but the Excalibur-like rock that holds the butter and bread knife is the crowd pleaser here.

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The first two courses come out rapidly – an oyster, cucumber and feijoa dish clean, almost Spartan, while in contrast ‘egg yolk – cooked curds’ is decadently rich, a slow cooked yolk meandering over crunchy chickpea crumbs.

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Next, an oddly shaped mound appears and I take my first bite. It’s amazing. Large chunks of spanner crab have been folded into a soft, wild garlic cream and covered by crisp slivers of Jerusalem artichokes. There is not turtle in sight and the flavours are brilliant. Would definitely recommend.

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The final savoury course is ‘Autumn foliage’. Visually striking, slices of juicy venison are tucked under a pile of crisp maple leaves. (I now see the fallen foliage around Civic in a whole new light.)

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After a tangy palate cleanser we move on to the next course.  ‘Wild honey – brioche – milk crumbs – weeds’ the menu reads.  As pretty as a spring garden, the scent of fresh lavender hits me as the plate lands. I have to admit I’m not a huge fan of the flaky milk crumbs, but the dish is gorgeous to look at and would give Michael Bras a run for his money.

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To finish off, ‘Mulched pine caramels’ are delivered. Call me a food Philistine, but if you can imagine the perfect Fantale – this would be it. Smooth, buttery-soft caramel on the inside, rich dark chocolate on the exterior, save room for this.

A brunch and bar menu is available in the casual dining area next door. During the course of our meal we watch sliders and parmesan fries emerge from our kitchen and they look delicious. I make a mental note to try them next time.

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Biota offers edgy, innovative cuisine in an idyllic setting. Don’t come here if you’re after a solid comfort meal, but if your tastebuds are ready to be challenged, and you appreciate beautifully designed food, it’ll be right up your alley.

The essentials

What: Biota Dining
Where: 18 Kangaloon Road, Bowral
When: Lunch: Friday to Monday, Dinner: Monday to Sunday, Brunch: Saturday and Sunday only.
Web: www.biotadining.com
Phone: 02 4862 2005
Email: info@biotadining.com