Kitchen Conversations: Damian Brabender

Posted on 20 September, 2018

Chef Damian Brabender was front and centre at September’s Winning Appliances Sunday Supper Club. We caught up with him to talk life, food and everything in between.

Named Australian Chef of the Year 2017 at the AHA National Awards For Excellence, and more recently 2018 ACT Chef of The Year at the R&CA Awards for Excellence, Damian Brabender has worked in Michelin star restaurants across the globe.

Now settled in Canberra as owner of the award-winning OTIS Dining Hall, Damian is also Executive Chef of The Truffle Farm, where he can indulge his passion for truffles. We caught up with him at September’s Sunday Supper Club at Winning Appliances‘ Kingston showroom for a little kitchen conversation.

What is your earliest food memory?

My earliest food memory was going to “the shop” in Narrawong (yes there was only one shop in the whole town) with my brother to buy a pie for the first time. It’s not an overly “cheffy” experience, although I do still love pies.

What led you to a career as a chef?

Coming from a family of 12 I learnt at a young age that if you helped with cooking someone else would have to do the washing up. I mean what’s more fun—making a mess or cleaning one? I have always enjoyed the quality behind food, and cooking with a purpose, not just because of social currency or fashion. There seem to be fewer and fewer chefs who cook for the sake of food these days.

Tell us a little bit about your food journey.

I have been very lucky in my life and career—I have taken risks and gambles that have paid off. After finishing my apprenticeship I moved to Europe, spending time in Paris and London. I was fortunate enough to work with the likes as Michel Roux Jr, Pierre Koffmann and Antonio Carluccio—these are the chefs that helped me mature as a young cook. I worked as Head Chef at the Royal Opera House in London, and the well-known Racine by Henry Harris.

Moving back to Australia I spent some time working in the country’s top hotels and resorts, including Lizard Island, and as Executive chef for Emirates at the prestigious Wolgan Valley.

I moved to Canberra almost four years ago. I have a strong passion for local produce so began working with The Truffle Farm, educating people on how to use the prized ingredient.

Two years ago I opened OTIS Dining Hall, with a focus on “real food” and local produce. Since opening we have also launched a boutique bagel company (soon to expand) and a small cafe in Fyshwick, and have a small hospitality consulting side gig.

What’s been your career highlight so far?

My career highlight so far? That is a tough one, being named Chef of The Year for Australia for the AHA was quite a surprise and very humbling.

What do you love most about being a chef?

So many chefs would say “creating dishes” but for me, I love being able to replicate recipes from some of the best chefs of our time, be it a “steak au poivre” (pepper steak) or classic crème caramel. Real food that takes real skill and care.

What’s your favourite thing to whip up when you’re at home with your family or friends?

I love to buy a whole fish from the markets and prepare it a few ways: some sashimi, some tartare with horseradish creme on toast and some on the BBQ. I think it’s more social and enjoyable.

Tell us about OTIS–what experience are you trying to create for diners?

OTIS was really designed to feel like a nostalgic experience, to remind people of what restaurants used to be. You should see the chef talking to guests, the music should be enjoyable and has a part to play, and the wine list should be local and change frequently.

For the food itself, it’s really an ever-changing thing—one menu might be chicken parfait and the next steamed Japanese custard. It’s what we feel like cooking each season, and always a reflection of our guests’ feedback.

How would you describe your food philosophy?

My food philosophy as a chef is pretty simple—food should always be fresh, seasonal and taste good. If it’s not you’re just wasting your time, and wasting food. And always focus on the hero ingredient or you will confuse the whole point of cooking.

What are your favourite places to eat in Canberra?

My favourite places to eat in Canberra would be RAKU in Bunda street—Chef Hao Chen is very talented—and Jimmy’s place in Dickson has the best XO pipis in Canberr,a hands down. And KFC…because I’m human! I go through the drive-through in my uniform to pick up lunch for the team sometimes and get the strangest looks! It’s also why we serve a KFQ dish on the menu.

What appliance found in the Winning Appliances showroom would you love to get your hands on?

This is an easy question, I’ve already been looking at getting an Electrolux Electric built in Combi steam oven for home. It’s compact enough for an apartment and can achieve the same results as a commercial combi worth 10-15 times the price. Oh and it’s my birthday soon…didn’t I mention that?